Open Air Runways - The New FashionNarrative
- 8 hours ago
- 4 min read
Today, fashion shows serve a purpose that goes beyond simply showcasing clothing for sale; they have become a ritual filled with artistic and visual elements that is eagerly anticipated each season.
Over the years, we have witnessed the evolution of fashion shows, as they have gone from serving as a simple sales bridge between fashion houses and customers, to becoming one of the most eagerly anticipated rituals for many each season.
What initially consisted of placing garments on tables for display soon evolved into private runway shows in salons and hotels, and this evolution didn’t stop there; today, the runway ritual consists of various elements that contribute to and enhance the brand’s narrative.
One of the key elements within the world of fashion shows is the setting in which they take place, as this can help convey the narrative of the collection being presented in a simpler, more eloquent, and more organic way.
Over the past 20 years, outdoor runway shows have gained popularity and become increasingly common, as brands seek to create an experience when presenting their new collections—transforming a commercial event into something iconic—to reinforce the storytelling of their designs and generate greater media impact, and not only that, but they also help establish the current creative director, especially when it’s their debut.
We can recall fashion shows in which the location was a co-star; far from overshadowing the collection, it served as the perfect complement, making it
unforgettable, offering us a picture-perfect setting for a dreamlike presentation,
and showcasing the creative director of the moment.
Simon Porte Jacquemus, at his Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show—which took place in his native South of France, in the lavender fields of Valensole, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of his fashion house—gave us a master class in brand communication. At this fashion show, Jacquemus perfectly conveyed his label's concept by blending its aesthetic codes with its values in a simple, authentic, natural, and effective way; a feat that cemented his status as the king of digital marketing.
This was definitely a turning point in Jacquemus's career as well as in the fashion industry; while it wasn't the first outdoor fashion show, it was the first to attract so much media attention, as it took social media by storm.
Another fashion show that was not only iconic but also historic was the one presented by the “Kaiser of Fashion,” Karl Lagerfeld, for Chanel’s Cruise 2017 collection. However, this was not the first outdoor runway show under Karl Lagerfeld’s artistic direction; for Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection, the then creative director of the Italian fashion house decided to present a culturally charged spectacle, featuring an aesthetic of excessive performance and logistics that were almost impossible to conceive—on none other than the Great Wall of China.
The Fendi show was a historic moment in the fashion industry, presenting a show ahead of its time that would revolutionize fashion shows as they were known up to that point; but what makes Chanel’s runway show even more significant is the immense political weight behind it, as it was the first major runway show by a luxury fashion house in Cuba following the reestablishment of relations with the United States, incorporating classic cars and Havana’s colonial architecture.
If there’s one thing we love in fashion, it’s triumphant comebacks; and Pierpaolo Piccioli treated us to the most anticipated comeback in the world of haute couture, with the historic Cité Universitaire as a backdrop, to showcase the return of classic beauty to Balenciaga’s aesthetic, with the house’s signature silhouettes reinterpreted through Pierpaolo’s lens. He filled us with hope tinged with nostalgia; these details were key to the success of the Maison’s 55th collection launch, but the pièce de résistance of this show was its human side.
Pierpaolo reminded us that creating a haute couture collection requires an army, showing us the most authentic side—the heart behind the pieces, the life of the atelier.
Haute couture is made by people. It is created with time, attention, spirit, and, above all, with the infinite love of people. These are the people, the human beings who built this collection with me. These are the faces; these are the hearts. This is the identity of BALENCIAGA Couture.
This was more than a debut; it was a revolutionary act, as with a single gesture,
he managed to change the narrative of frivolity in the industry.
As we can see, the location of runway shows plays a key role in fashion houses'
communication efforts; while they serve a media and commercial purpose, it’s not
all about business and frivolity—there’s more to it than that.
There is a historical, political, and social narrative behind them that, while perhaps subtle, is visible to those willing to pay attention.
by Carla Campos
Continue the journey!
Upcoming events:
While it’s difficult to predict which shows will be held outdoors, the next fashion week is in Copenhagen, which is known for holding the vast majority of its runway shows outdoors; it will take place from August 3rd to 7th, 2026, in the Danish capital.
Upcoming Fashion Weeks Calendar (Spring-Summer 2027)
Copenhagen Fashion Week: August 3–7, 2026.
New York Fashion Week: September 2026.
London Fashion Week: September 2026.
Milan Fashion Week: September 22–28, 2026.
Paris Fashion Week: September 28–October 6, 2026
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